These are some of the basic materials used for model making in D 1 & 2 stages and some tips how to use them.
Wood:
Bass wood is better than Balsa wood. Balsa wood tends to warp and distort when it absorbs humidity and exposed to sunlight. Make a library of various linear (Sticks) and planer elements (Wider sticks). Use Xato knif to cut these. Available in different widths/thicknesses and sizes. Can find at art supply stores and lumber stores for thicker planes or pieces.
Chipboard:
Use Xato knif to cut these. Models don't end up looking as nice as when made with wood or museum board. Available in different thicknesses - 1 ply, 2 ply, etc.
Museum Board
Museum boards are available in different colors. White and Grey particularly look clean when a model is complete. Available in different thicknesses - 1 ply, 2 ply, etc.
Plexi Glass
See plexi 1o1 tutorial.
Glues
This is a tricky thing. You want a glue that will give a clean finish, doesn't leave glue marks & not messy, that will not take too long to dry and if you have sensitivities to certain fumes like me, you want to find a glue that will not give allergies.
- For Wood - Tacky Glue, Elmer Glue, TiteBond II, or any other Commercial wood Glue
- For Chip Board & Museum Board - These get dirty fast and you need to wash your hand periodically when working with these material. Otherwise you will leave nasty finger prints all over the panels. Tacky Glue or Elmer Glue works for these
- For Plexiglass and Acetates - Glues with Cyanoacrylate - Loctite, Zap-a-gap, EZBond
Cyanoacrylate can be used for wood models also.
ReplyDeleteYes you may. It is a more expensive option but it certainly works. Super glue, locktite, zap a gap all these brands have Cyanoacrylate and they pretty much glue anything just about anything - just as they advertise.
DeleteThe downside is it is these glues are very toxic and can cause allergies in most people.